There is nothing more cheerful than colorful, often fragrant blooms during the dreary days of winter. Forcing flowe bulbs is a simple and fun process to bring that bit of sunshine into your home. It just takes a little planning!
Photo by Chris Goldberg (Flickr)
A bulb is not just a bulb, bub! The term bulb is shorthand for bulbs, rhizomes, tubers, and corms. They are all considered geophytes, or plants that store water and nutrients in a large, underground part of the plant. Common flowering true bulbs include daffodils, alliums, tulips, hyacinths, amaryllis, lilies, and Dutch Iris. Rhizomes come as
Canna lilies, Iris, Ginger, and many more. Enjoy tubers as sweet potatoes, dahlias, peonies, etc. Corms appear in the form of Jack In The Pulpits, Liatris, Crocus, Gladiolas, and Crocosmia. All beautiful in their own way and many can be forced for indoor enjoyment.
(Flickr)
Bulb Forcing manipulates nature by changing the natural cycle of the plant therefore planning is a must. Here are some steps to help get you started.
There are generally two types of bulbs that can be forced. Those that require a chill period and those who are a bit more flexible to temperatures. Choose a bulb based on color and fragrance and is firm and unblemished. If you aren’t quite ready to go, store your bulbs in a mesh bag in the vegetable crisper. Be sure to keep them away from fruit as the ethylene gas will damage them. Paper Whites and Amaryllis are usually the favs as they do not require a chill period
As in life, timing is everything! If your bulbs require a chill period, you will need to plan for that. There is approximately a three month wait period between planting and blooming. For instance, if you plant mid-September plan on December blooms, Mid-October-February blooms and Mid-November-March/April blooms. While this is not exact, you get the picture.
Selecting the right container is also a must. You want something twice the depth of the bulb with good drainage. Water forcing works well too. A shallow saucer with pebbles or vase/forcing jar is just the thing.
Christina Castro (Flickr)
When planting your bulbs ignore the planting instructions on the bag. Use a good potting soil or soil-less mix. Fill the pots with 2” of soil on the bottom place the bulbs close but not touching. Fill with more soil until just the bulb tip is showing and water gently. Some bulbs you can cover with more soil until 1⁄2” below the rim of the pot. Some bulbs like their tips showing. Once the foliage shows, you can move to a slightly sunnier spot. Don’t overwater! Once a week gently is usually enough. Place in a warm spot out of direct sunlight.
For water forcing, fill a shallow saucer with pea gravel to 1” below the rim, add water to just below the gravel and nestle bulbs into the pea gravel. Place in low light until you see roots and shoots then move them gradually to brighter light. I use mason jars filled with pebbles for paper whites and it works like a charm and are great for gifts! Saving your bulbs after bloom can be iffy. Most use up their energy and will rarely bloom the following year. Amaryllis is the exception to the rule.
For more complete instructions and ideas, check out Virginia Tech’s
“Fooling Mother Nature: Forcing Flower Bulbs for Indoor Bloom”
Publication Hort-76NP.
AUTHOR: Written by Sue Becker, Bedford Area Master Gardener Association President.